I Experienced Barbados Like A Tourist And Found More Than Beaches

The Village was alive from the moment you walked in. Colourful stalls stretched across the grounds, packed with handmade jewellery, pottery, textiles, skincare products, books, and paintings. The scent of food travelled through the air, with dishes from every corner of the region. You could try Trinidadian doubles, Jamaican jerk, Guyanese pepperpot, or my favourite, a Bajan fish cake fresh from the fryer, and I promise I am not being biased. Around one corner, designers took over a runway with evening fashion shows, while on another stage, poets and musicians shared their craft.

The Grand Market became such a highlight that people called on the Prime Minister, Mia Amor Mottley, to make it a permanent fixture. She agreed, and now it will remain in place, supported by an online marketplace so that vendors can reach audiences across the Caribbean and around the world.

There was always something happening somewhere on the island. It was impossible to get to everything without planning ahead, but then again, not everything would appeal to everyone. You picked and chose what spoke to you. One thing I have always loved is a good story, and one event on the programme called out to me, Echoes from the Yard: A Night of Caribbean Tales. The name alone drew me in.

There were storytellers from all over the Caribbean, sharing folklore from their homelands. Stories that scared you, stories that made you laugh, and even stories that brought tears to your eyes. All played out by the most talented actors of all ages in the region. It was an unforgettable night, under the stars, among neighbours, among friends. Like the host of the evening said, Carifesta is about making friends, and I made a few.

This year also marked the 50th anniversary of “Barbados”, the hit song by Typically Tropical that introduced the island to a global audience. Meeting the two men who wrote it, Geraint Hughes (who also used the pseudonym Max West) and Jeffrey Calvert, while they were here to celebrate, felt special.

We became friends quickly. They shared stories of their adventures on the island in the 1970s, driving around in a Mini Moke. Jeff had visited many times over the years, but it was Geraint’s first trip back. He remembered almost everything from that first visit, except his time on the Jolly Roger, which was by design. In those days rum was the real captain of the ship and a good time meant remembering very little the next morning.

They also shared the story of how the track was created, almost as a playful experiment. Hughes, a sophisticated musician and engineer, did not originally see it as a serious project. He reserved his real name for work he considered serious and used the Max West pseudonym for tracks he thought were lighter. Ironically, that “less serious” song went on to become a number one hit in the UK.

The duo were audio engineers by trade but also gifted multi-instrumentalists, playing everything on the record except the drums. They were working with Trojan Records, the legendary reggae label that also released music from Bob Marley.

As the two rediscovered the island, the world rediscovered their song. A new 2025 version of “Barbados” was released by K.A.D, an independent British rapper, singer, producer, and songwriter from Southeast London.

It reminded me that Barbados, like the song itself, is always being reinvented. Every time you return, there is something new to discover. The island is more modern than many people realise, yet it still manages to strike a balance between tradition and progress.

Driving around the island feels like travelling through time. You pass colourful chattel houses, once built as movable wooden homes for plantation workers, and sugar estates that stand as reminders of our past. On the rugged east coast the Atlantic waves crash against dramatic cliffs, wild and untamed. Just a short drive away, the west coast dazzles with five-star resorts, luxury villas, high-end fashion, some of the Caribbean’s most glamorous properties, and stretches of beaches so beautiful that visitors return to them year after year.

But the magic of Barbados is not only found in luxury. Even something as simple as getting around is an adventure. The yellow and blue minibuses, known to visitors as “reggae buses,” thump with music as they zip along the coast, while the smaller white minivans are a staple of daily life. Transportation has evolved too, with the island now offering a ride-hailing service called pickuP,  an alternative similar to Uber.

That same mix of tradition and modern convenience extends to where you stay. Airbnb has become a popular option, offering properties in the heart of communities and even more affordable opportunities to stay with a Bajan family. I can personally recommend it, having hosted visitors myself. It is always special for both sides. Guests get a true taste of Barbadian life, and locals have the chance to share their culture in a meaningful way.

This contrast is part of Barbados’ magic. It is an island that honours its history while embracing the present, a place where every visit feels both familiar and new.

A Train Ride Through Rum, Sugar, and Time

After Carifesta, I turned my attention to another part of our heritage. I went back in time at the St. Nicholas Abbey Heritage Railway. The steam engine carries you on a journey into Barbados’ history, winding its way to Cherry Tree Hill where you step off to browse local crafts and sip fresh coconut water, with the fruit cut right in front of you.